Face to Face with the White Rhino

I’m back from a week long road trip with our final destination being one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. Between the park, which is based in Gweru, and Vic Falls which borders Zambia, Botswana and Namibia further west, we had planned overnight stays at two National Parks. The first, Matopas specializes in protecting the endangered black and especially white rhino.

Several years ago I remember attending an event at the Baltimore Zoo. It was a fundraiser not only for the zoo, but for the white rhino. It was at this event that I learned how poaching had put the white rhino on the endangered species list. They were being hunted and poached for their horns. Some cultures believe they contain healing ingredients. White rhinos are much larger than black rhino so this is the species that was seeing the greatest decline.

My new friends at Matopas National mean business when it comes to wildlife conservation. They don’t mess around. They make it very clear what can happen if you are caught pouching. Upon entering the park there is a large sign that reads “If you are caught or suspected of pouching, you may be shot”. Yeahoooo! I like these guys! I can hear my friends at Passport Health in Sacramento cheering with me as they read this!

Our guide Andy loved his rhino. He was not only owner of Black Rhino Tours; he was a member of the anti-pouching team. Andy reminded me a bit of Steve Erwin, The Crocodile Hunter. He was passionate about wildlife and would rather be nowhere else than in the bush. Thanks to Andy, I am a pooh specialist. I can now tell you the difference between white rhino and black rhino pooh. I can also tell the difference between rhino and elephant pooh. I can also point out giraffe pooh and tell you if it came from a male or a female. Are you impressed yet?

Andy had us pile into his safari truck. He sat in the passenger seat while his business partner drove. Not long after we passed through the main entrance, the truck came to a stop. We all looked around with wide eyes. Nothing. Andy got out of the truck, crouched low to the ground and examined the tracks he had spotted. Slowly he stood up and looked to the right. Our eyes followed. Nothing. He got back in the truck and motioned for the driver to go off to the right. Slowly we crept along. Once again, Andy jumps out and performs his same moves. Our eyes are glued to his every move. He then says, “Everyone out of the truck”. WHAT?? Andy has found some fresh tracks. The truck cannot make it through the trees to where the tracks lead so he wants us to follow them on foot. Andy reviews some safety precautions with the last one being “as long as you can out run the person next to you, you’ll be fine”. I don’t know whether to laugh or cry considering most of the people I’m with are half my age.

One by one we follow Andy in a line. After about a five minute walk, we spot them. Three male, white rhino. My heart is racing with excitement. Slowly, Andy leads us closer and closer. And then it hits me. I am standing 25 feet away from an animal that I not only attended a fundraiser for, but at one time was known to have less than 100 inheritance on this entire planet. The white rhino has been upgraded from “endangered species” to “near threaten”. They are magnificent.

Feeding the Big Boys

Meet a few of the Studs of the Breeding Program: Arthur, Casper and Mufasa. Believe it or not, they are real sweet hearts; however, I wouldn't come between them and their meat.

Meet the Three Ss

May I formally introduce you to Sango, Swahili and Sahara, or as they are also affectionately called, “The Ss”. This motley crew just celebrated their nine month birthday. They are the youngest cubs at the park, but hopefully not for long. Rumor has it that Lulu is knocked-up and expecting to give birth any day now.

It’s amazing how they have changed in just the few weeks that I’ve been walking with them. My first walk with the cubs was mass chaos. They practiced selective listening and where on their own agenda. Actually, it was the day of the run-off election and the lion handlers had off. They were not present for the walk and the cubs took advantage of their absence. It was sort of like how an elementary class behaves when they have a substitute teacher.

I went on a five hour walk with them yesterday and they were so well behaved. They were full of energy and very playful. Just think, one day little Sango will be the King of Beasts.

Hope you enjoy the photos.

Hard Lessons Learned in the Bush

I’ve had the fortunate opportunity to have spent the past week at ALERT’s phase II lion release site. The research facility, Dollar Block, is located just outside of Bulawayo. It is a 22,000 acre game reserve stocked full of wildlife. You couldn’t drive anywhere without seeing an animal of some sort.

Unfortunately, it is a controlled hunting camp. ALERT rents the research facility cottages and the several hundred acres (I need to confirm the exact amount) needed for the lions from them. Lions are not hunted at the camp and the land ALERT rents from Dollar Block for the lions that are in phase II of the breeding program has a boundary fence.

I was in a bit of a hurry when I left for the research facility. I didn’t have time to check e-mails or inform anyone back home that I was going to be unreachable for a week. You see, “in the bush” we have no internet or phones. We only had electricity about 60% of the time. Unlike Antelope Park, there were no back-up generators. On my first night, the electricity cut off shortly after dark, so we had a candle light dinner. I also had a candle light bath. You can always count on hot water. The water was heated by a wood fire and Intiny, the gardener and over all handyman made sure that the boiler fire kept going in the evening.

There are six lionesses in the phase II pride. Research is conducted three times a day; 5:30 – 7:30am, 12:00 – 1:30pm and 5:00 – 7:00pm. We look for the location of each lioness, their movement during the research period, social and aggression behaviors, stalking and/or hunting encounters and we identify the prey witnessed on each outing. The lionesses had been doing very well hunting for themselves; however, there had not been a sign of a kill in a few weeks.

On the morning of July 13, the full pride of lionesses were found anxiously pacing. They were obsessively focused on something just beyond the outside of the fence. Suddenly, Ashanti began scratching at the fence. Ticha, the lion handler who was part of the research team, stood on top of the truck enclosure to see what was causing such unrest with the pride. Using the night-vision spot light he identified the culprit. Stuck in the buffalo fence located about three meters from the enclosure was an injured, adult female impala. They seemed to be very determined to reach the injured impala. After watching for several minutes, the decision was made to drive out of the enclosure to check on the status of the impala. We park the truck approximately 50 meters from the impala and the pacing pride. When we get within 10 meters of the impala she forces herself up and begins to stager about before running a good distance forward. It’s at this time the group gathers to make a plan. We decided to radio Roy, the operations manager, to survey the situation. After capturing the impala with a wool blanket and looking at her injuries at a close range, Roy diagnosed the impala with a severely broken leg and major wire cuts in and around the mouth. She would not survive and it was best to put her out of pain. At this time Roy shot her in the head. He took her away in his truck to be cleaned and given to the staff. As for the lions, still no kill. As for me, a hard lesson learned in the bush.

Later that night we’re gathering around the table and I say, “Something smells good… what’s for dinner?” The cook smiles, “Impala”.

Midland Orphanage, Zimbabwe

Since around October 2007, my neighbors in Sacramento, the Nordbergs, have been graciously gathering children’s clothing for me to bring to Zimbabwe. The clothing has come from their children, nieces, as well as other neighbors. Their four year old son Owen has been very involved in this project. When they were done, they had collected over 80lbs of clothing. I brought this clothing from California to Maryland, where I picked up some additional donations from DiLeonardo family. They brought shoes and clothes from Ohio to Maryland with the assistance of Grannie Jeannie. In total, I now had 100 lbs. of clothes… with a few beach balls, cards, jump ropes and other fun stuff thrown together in two extra large duffel bags.

Even though the U.S. Embassy had posted a warning to not bring items of “aid” into Zimbabwe, I was determined to get these clothes to the orphanage. As you may have read in an early posting, I was questioned at customs about the duffels. I told them I was traveling from Zim to Botswana via overland and taking the clothes with me. They had no problem with this response and allowed me to pass through. Needless to say, I had quite a bit of luggage…. one personal carry-on and a rolling duffel and two EX-Large duffels for the orphanage.

I had been mentally preparing myself for the trip to the orphanage for months. So why is it my eyes welled-up with tears as soon as we pulled into the drive way? There they were, smiling and waving with excitement as if they had been waiting days for our arrival. There are about six of us from Antelope Park who have come to visit today, that’s all that could fit in the van.

As we pile out of the van, the children shyly approach us. Their clothes are thin, warn, and faded. It’s very clear to me that it has been a long time since they have received “new” clothes. Ben, our project manager, carries the two duffels into the head mistress’s office where I help her and another house mother sort the clothes into three piles: babies, girls, and boys. We take the piles into a large room where they are placed on separate tables. There are three house mothers, including the head mistress. They begin to hand out the clothing. The children stand around anxiously hoping their name is called. Older children begin dressing the babies with their newly acquired outfits. Even though they missed out on receiving something for themselves, they seem to have pleasure in dressing the babies in their new outfits.

I duck into the head mistresses office to blow-up the beach balls. Without the children taking notice, I begin to launch them into the courtyard. Bright colored beach balls are flying in the air and bounce off the walls as the children jump around and chase them with laughter. Then I introduced them to the age old American birthday tradition of Pin the Tale on the Donkey. Barbara, another volunteer and school teacher from California, helped me to organize the game. The children had a blast! During the game, a baby boy about a year old wearing one of Owen’s hand-me-down shirts crawled up to my leg and was reaching up for me to hold him. As I held him in my arms, he sucked his thumb and rested his head on my shoulder. He remained there for the rest of my visit. At one point I went to put him down because a little baby girl around his age was crying because a beach ball had just hit her. She wanted me to pick her up. As I went to put him down he started to cry “Mama” and held his hands up towards me. How do you prepare yourself for something like this? I decided to sit down so I could hold them both. As soon as I sat down, two other babies crawled up to me. I now had four babies sitting on and around me all wanting just to be held.

Some other volunteers came over to play with the babies; it was then that I met Sebastian. He is 17 years old and lives at the orphanage. He wrote me a letter and wanted to read it to me. The letter said that he knows God has sent me to him because he has been praying so hard for a pair of trainers so he can play soccer and now he finally has a pair (thanks to my friend Christen DiLeonardo and her family). Well, that did it. The tears started rolling down my cheek. I have never felt such competing emotions. In one way I was so happy that he now had a something he needed and had be longing for, but at the same time I felt deep sorrow. A simple pair of used trainers had been the answer to his prayers. He ask for my address, I wanted his in return. Sebastian may feel that God has brought me to him, but I thank God for bringing Sebastian to me.

Intro to Riding in the Bush

We’ve all gone, or at least had the opportunity to go horseback riding while on vacation. It’s usually one of those activities that you see while in the Caribbean or on a mountain retreat. As soon as you arrive a poor, old horse is brought up to you all saddled-up and ready, a saddle that has been on him for several hours because you’re the eleventh tourist to hop on his back. You’re put into a single file line and slowly walk along until the agreed upon time is over. I’ve enjoyed myself in the past, which is until I met Amanda, Antelope Park’s assistant stable manager and all around horse expert. I realized Amanda’s sincere passion for horses as soon as I met her on my first day at AP.

Three of us spent the morning with Amanda getting to know the 27+ horses and a brief bio. Some of the horses were brought to the park by farmers who had their land taken away or burn to the ground by the government. One of the many challenges AP is currently facing is the lack of food for the horses. The horses have not been fed in three days. They are currently being allowed to roam the park all night and at certain times during the day to graze, but they are in need of protein. This is something that is currently not available in Zimbabwe and the government will not allow to be imported into the country. Apparently they have located a farmer who has some sort of protein that can be mixed with molasses and will be able to feed the horses 1/3 of what they are suppose to eat a day for three weeks. Very sad situation.

After our intro, we were taught grooming… very therapeutic for both the groomer and the horse. Then came saddling-up the horse. I was using an African bush saddle (there is a proper name which I will need to get from Amanda). It’s basically a leather toilet seat. Doesn’t sound comfortable, but trust me… it is. I prefer it to the hard English saddle.

I was to put my trust and faith into hands, or should I say “hooves” of Jacko. So far we seemed to be getting along well. I climbed up on the saddle and we headed to the ring for our first, well my first, proper ridding lesson.

Amanda whipped us all straight into shape… “heels down, put them in line with your hips, hips in line with your shoulders, back straight but don’t arch it too much”. I felt like I should be wearing a tweed blazer, knee high leather boots and a braid in my hair. Amanda knows her stuff.

After lunch it was time for the real deal, a certified African safari bush ride. Amazing! Because the horses roam the park, the game are use having them around. When we approach them, all they see are the horses, not us. We were able to get up close to impala, wilder beast, zebra, vermin monkeys and antelope. What an unbelievable experience. Just riding through the bush and looking across the horizon was so peaceful and relaxing.

Couldn’t relax too long as we had a chance to practice our trotting. We needed to hurry back to take the cubs on their afternoon walk. It is their nine month birthday which means we begin a two week long process of capturing data on their behavior.

Lion vs. Zebra

On the morning of June 30^th we took Lozi and Mana for a five and half hour pride walk. Lozi was fresh off his first ever kill, a warthog, which had taken place during the previous days afternoon walk. This is excellent news, not for the warthog, but in that the lion breeding program here at Antelope Park is working. You see, Lozi and Mana were bred and born in captivity here at the park. They were fed their meat and are now starting to hunt on their own. Soon they will be taken on night encounters where they will hunt and kill large prey. Once they are doing this on a consistence basis, they will be taken to Dollar Block, a game reserve and research facility in Bulawayo. There they will be able to run free though out the entire reserve and hunt as they wish. They are heavily monitored to insure they continue to hunt. Then, we cross our fingers and wait for success with the next step which is when the lions breed and give birth in a natural environment. These cubs will not be handled by humans. Once they are full grown, they will be safely captured and placed in secure game preserves throughout Africa.

Back to our walk. Lozi the killer greats me with a deep, tender moan and brushes his head against my leg. I notice blood stains around his mane. The stain comes to a point just above his chest like a gold medal. It’s a beautiful sunrise over the bush and the air is fresh and crisp. I’m happy to be in Zimbabwe with the King of Beast. Joining me on the walk are two lion handlers, Everest and Lucky and four other volunteers. One from London, two from Iceland and another from the U.S. After a breakfast picnic of oranges, crisps, and biscuits, FFi from London fills me in on the social life at AP. The animals aren’t the only thing wild at AP… fun group of vols and staff. You know the saying…. “Work hard, play hard”.

The second half of our walk proves to be a real adventure. We spot giraffe, impala, and a heard of Zebra. Lozi and Mana become very excited when they see game. Watching them stalk really gets your adrenaline going. It was pretty much the same scenario. The lions would spot the game. There would be a stare-off of about 5-10 seconds. Then the either the lions or the game would move. The game would always flee the scene and the lions would give up. Until they encounter the herd of Zebra.

There they were, a spectacular herd of Zebra. There black and white stripes were so vibrant it look as if they had been freshly painted. Lozi and Mana assumed stalking position. Lozi, a bit full of himself after killing a warthog is lying almost flat to the bush. Ears back, head down, tip of his tail twitching in steady rhythm as if counting down the seconds until he charges. Unlike the other game, the Zebras don’t seem to be as impressed with Lozi’s gold metal of wart hog blood. Then Lozi charges after the herd. They all scamper forward. Then one stallion turns to challenge Lozi who runs away with his tail between his legs! We all roar with laughter. Remember, were not in a Land Rover… we’re on foot. Talk about a front row seat! This little game carriers on for several minutes. Towards the end, Lozi almost gets the Zebra. I felt like I was on an emotional roller coaster. Part of me was cheering on Lozi, but the other part of me was hoping the Zebra would not be injured or killed.

Power Issues

Quick message to let you all know that we've had some power issues here at AP. When the power is working, I seem to be out in the field helping with a project. The internet is slow, takes a while to down load photos. Also having issues with the telephone. Someone please let my grandmother know that I have tried to call her but I'm having difficulty reaching the United States at the moment.

They keep us quite busy here... three pride walks a day with the lions, feedings, meat prep (yuck... I'm getting use to it), enclosure cleanings and maintenance, elephant walks, behavior research on their eating habits, etc.

I need to run off to a project now but will return soon with a great photo of a lion hunt!

By the way, thanks to all you who have left me such wonderful comments. They have been so nice to read. I will try to respond when I have more internet time... and electricity!

Cheers!

Pics from Lion Handling 101